Progress report 3

The phone company is going to begin to have hope for me and will actually have reason to send me a bill this month! There are months I use the phone so seldom, that I don't get a bill at all. I called to clarify most of my many questions about the Finnish National Dress that I will make. If you want to see the basic protype you can follow this link:
http://www.vastavalo.fi/kansallispuku-lapvaartti-kansallispuvun-osia-148283.html

If the book I mentioned yesterday didn't clue you in, and if you are still somewhat in the dark about the variety of Finnish National Dress then allow that this particular one is one from the Swedish speaking population of Finland. I first saw it in old, 1912, black and white photos in the book and wasn't sure of the colors but liked the look of the skirt. I admit I was a little disappointed to find it was red. But when I met Eija, she assured me that in fact the skirt can be red, or blue, or black, or green, or purple and all my disappointment vanished. I like the simplicity (!?) of it - it isn't all colors run amuck (and that from a person who wears such colors!). I am also learning that the simplicity is an illusion! Those interesting white flecks in the skirt , and the flecks of color in the apron, are in fact ikat. They are very carefully and finely dyed, then very precisely placed in the weave (weft). Theoretically I understand. I am eager to try it and in mortal terror that I won't be careful enough!

Meanwhile I do have answers to my questions. For the blouse I need a very closely woven cotton, or linen/cotton blend. This will improve the drape of the sleeves. I must use the cut work on pages 54-5 of Perinteistä ja uutta Suomalainen Revinnäiskirja but should not use the technique on page 63. Instead I can try the two styles on page 56. Currently, as beginner, the styles on page 56 look extremely difficult - beautiful to be sure - but difficult. In any event the style chosen must be close and dense, and other than that I may more or less freely choose.

Yes, the warp of the skirt needs to be cotton. Wool will not do. The warp will need to be "tex 28x2". I know this means a two ply, but I am not sure exactly how thin and fine this amounts to - and this in spite of having read about the tex system. When reading it, it sounds very clear and simple but it doesn't translate into something I visualize! I also don't know if the cotton is mercerized or not! Oh dear, looks like another phone call! Meanwhile the belt I can indeed pick and choose among the patterns sent. Originally the patterns on the belt were very locality specific, so for the general area the overall "look" was the same but by looking at the belt one knew where each person was from.

My Inkle Loom to weave the belt on is in the post. The wool to spin to weave the pattern of the belt is is the post. The high speed flier to spin the cotton to weave the belt is waiting until after Twelfth Night to be made, then sent, then I must learn to spin cotton before I can weave the belt!!! It looks like I am forced to concentrate on learning cut work embroidery skills while dreaming of ikat and belt weaving.

I have done my daily spinning. Now is time to walk the mutts and the enjoy the three books my sister sent: The Ocean of His Words, Prophet's Daughter, and Spiritual Intelligence. Reading the three introductions last night didn't exactly clarify which one I would prefer to read first, but each has a completely different appeal.