I have begun work on my Norn (master spinner). The requirements for Norn spinning with flax are three skeins of flax. One skein must be spun wet; one must be spun dry; and one must be spun three ply. More on all of that will follow as I progress.

I chose the bleached tow (flax/linen) in the picture from my pervious post. I took my bleached tow supply to my local grocery store and weighed it. I did that because my scale is broken. I have plans to acquire a new scale, but it won’t be digital or battery operated.

Now I know I have 68 g of one bundle and 40 g of another bundle of bleached tow. Why is that important? I need (at least) three sample skeins of spun flax. Each skein must be between 1-2 ounces, which translates as 30-60 g. I’m starting with the 68 grams.

I’m not particularly worried about my bleached tow supply. I do have at least 100 g of unbleached tow. But I am planning what to do with all of the flax I have. You see there are also the dyeing requirements for Norn, and the project requirements in addition to just spinning simple skeins of various fibers. I want to be sure to have enough for everything.

Anyhow I began spinning and chose to use a drop spindle for spinning. I have three key reasons for using a drop spindle: it is easily transportable, which means I can take it with me almost anywhere and spin; it is more appropriate for the “Middle Ages”; and finally, I am spinning this single wet. I spin a section and then run it through my mouth to set the twist. I know most people use a bowl of water and wet their fingers in that. My reasons for my method are because it is more convenient and probably more historically accurate, and because Elsie Davenport claims this makes the best yarn but calls the method “quite unhygienic” (1953, p.82). In any case the yarn will be washed before other people handle it.

Davenport (1953, pp 87 and 90) also suggests winding the tow on a tow fork to keep the tow in order. While I have a tow fork, I am choosing not to use it. My choice not to use it is because I have the tow in order in a plastic bag, and because the tow fork is one more piece of equipment to carry around and it is pointed and somewhat dangerous. So I don’t want to deal with it for this skein. However, I have wound the 40 g of bleached tow onto it, and will probably use it as the distaff when I spin flax on my wheel.

I am choosing to spin the singles “s” because I have been told that flax has a natural “s” curve. Although I received this information from spinners who routinely spin flax, Irwin (2001, p.71) and Amos (2001, p. 119) confirm this. Personally, I do not see an “s” curve in the tow. Davenport makes no comment on this, though she is most thorough in all other matters.

Spinning

This morning I woke up and knew that to complete the spinning requirements for Norn (master spinner in the SCA Guild The Company of the Silver Spindle http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/ ) I would have to get a plan for accomplishing all the work (http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/charter.html#ranks  see Norn).

I have two problems: 1) I don't want to spin JUST for the Norn. I want to spin other things too. 2) I OUGHT to spin the rest of the fiber for my national dress project.

So I've come up with a plan. One Norn skein per month until summer, then I can spin other things, once the Norn skein is done. During the summer two Norn skeins per month, and work on spinning the yarn for the National dress project. I may end up scheduling another Conference day for my spinning.

After debating whether to start with spinning Cotton or Silk, I took out Holda Siobhan's spindle and some flax... One skein wet, one dry and one three ply... each skein at least 50 g. Okay I know what to do and can get busy.  White or natural?

I forgot that I also need to get out and start collecting nettle. Yes it's mid-winter, but it is recognizable, and because it is midwinter the nettle is already retted, so it only needs to dry out before breaking and hacking and spinning - that's exotic fiber for you...

Oh, yeah, I got the camera to work. but deleted more pictures than I saved. Really have to learn to use the camera.

Gee it's been a while...

How many times do I say that?  If I had a penny for every time, I'd be rich!

Sorry no photos today.  Yes I have a new camera after the old one died last summer, but I don't seem to be able to take good photos with it so it sits hidden in a cupboard.

Wednesday two friends came over to learn to spin!  YAY!  This is in addition to another friend who is also learning to spin! Great fun was had and two are reporting great progress!

Thursday - shh - don't tell, is my conference day. I keep a conference with myself all day. This event repeats every Thursday. The subject of my conference is my National dress project. This past Thursday I succeeded in 1) numbering skeins of yarn headed for the dye-pot 2) tieing other skeins of yarn for ikat dying. I used thinly sliced bicycle inner tubing to tie the places off. I figure that traditionally they probably used pig gut. Those two things occupied my morning.

3) My Thursday afternoon conference session focused on the belt I am trying to weave for the National dress. I am still not satisfied with the results. Yes, they are better than the last disaster, but something is definitely not right and I suspect the wool and cotton mixed warp is the problem. Basically I think it looks hideously bad.

4) Then I went to my course and sat happily and worked on the pulled thread embroidry for the front of the blouse (collar and back placket still to go and I am not finished with the front yet... and I've been working on it for several weeks).  We still need to check on the vest trim, the weave for the vest and what the tex of the warp and weft is, and get the pattern for the cap.  Now I understand the vest trim is velvet, which makes little sense (to me) because it is spun velvet.  Ok, how is velvet spun? I thought it was woven?!?!  I understand the principle of weaving velvet, but spinning it...??? I wonder why no one sees this dress?  Why no one makes this dress?

Also I hear the vest fabric is very shiny wool (also very thin and fine) To me that means a very fine combed top, closely spun worsted. It is the only thing that can really provide a shiny wool.  Okay I've been spinning at 84 tex, and have spun a 50 tex, so maybe I am looking for a 25 tex.  Um, yeah, I know. It IS possible to BUY this fabric.  But come on! Once upon a time, other people - not machines - actually spun the fiber and wove the originals, so it should still be possible today - or are we less skilled than our ancestors?
Don't answer that question!
I need samples of that trim and that vest fabric!