Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Time flies

It is almost the Gregorian New Year, so Happy New Year to those celebrating the event. I will most likely be home - that is my intent. Probably I will be spinning. The dogs will take me for an early walk, before the area turns into an auditory equivalent of cities under bombardment.

I have made minor progress: I test spun the two samples of wool and got a satisfying 20 meters from my first singles, which meant it was about 50 tex. So with the second trial gram of wool I got just over 12 meters and am assuming that is close to an 84 tex.

Carefully I wrapped the results around some nice green card I remembered having bought about three years ago thinking I needed it, but had never used it. The "fatter" results sits on my lap as I spin to remind me of the target.

My cutwork lace is progressing too. I now have 18 pattern repeats completed: nine on each cuff. Less than half to be sure but still considerable progress. On one I have pulled the threads out even further and "grouped" the remaining threads in tiny bundles of four. This is a serious error I know. Threads need to be worked in groups of three. However the threads are very fine and the pattern is not opening up prettily when grouped in threes. I think groups of four will give me the "look". It will also eventually lead to fewer pattern repeats. But I think I can handle that sacrifice, and possibly save what remains of my vision!

Today I was in Ekolo, a marvelous eco shop in Jyväskylä. I had decided to buy henna hair dye for my wool (the wool off of sheep, not the stuff sprouting out of my scalp). As I studied the packets, reading the directions, I decided I wanted to know what the ingredients were. One, supposedly for reds, is 100% henna; the other, supposedly for black, is 100% indigo. The packets are preweighed (100 g), but I kept weighing them in my hand and trying to remember "how much" was needed to dye "how much" wool. Actually I just wanted to be sure I bought enough. I decided to buy one of each. The henna will be enough for a test with about 100 g of wool or silk. The indigo will be enough for several kilos of wool or silk. Am I happy? Oh yes! This is as good as the time Kristiina and I "found" saffron on sale at some ridiculously give away price. Hum, I wonder what color saffron would dye wool or silk... Silk, saffron is too expensive for wool!

Oh I did get the software for the camera downloaded, and I even took some pictures - but I haven't put the pictures on the computer to upload. Sorry.

Smiles,
Susanne

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Snowing

It’s snowing like troops of angels gracefully descending from heaven.

I got some more cut work done, one or two of the flowers are actually looking like flowers. If I do NOT get another chapter to revise I will finally reload the program that lets me download pictures and then send them so you can see the mess I’ve created.

I got another batch of Osterfrisieses milcheschaffe (East Friesian Milk Sheep) wool spun, plied and skeined. This brings me to a total of 1020 meters of yarn for the warp for the blankets I will make. I need at least another 1000 meters before I will wind the warp.

Before I spin more Osterfriesies wool, I will do some samples in Corriedale to see if I dare spin the wool for the belt warp. I have two samples set out, each about 1 gram. I need to have at least 10 meters of yarn before I can proceed. Actually I need yarn that is 84 x 2 tex, so that means the yarn I spin must be about 12-13 meters long in order to be the correct thickness. I am stating with singles, a single thickness, because that is what must be right before I ply it.

Smiles,
Susanne

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Between loads of Laundry

I am between loads of laundry, Saturday morning being my usual laundry day. The apartment block has one laundry room with one washer so I mind the clock rather closely so I can get full use of my two hour time block.

I didn't get any cut work done yesterday. I did manage to do some spinning, still for the blanket. Until this current bobbin of singles is finished, plied and wound off I really cannot start spinning for my belt.

I have been thinking of Tex - the metric count system for classifying yarn thickness. I am not sure if my digital scale can measure 0.084 grams. I may be doing this more "by guess and by gosh" than I care to do. Such is life.

Spent yesterday actually getting my tax return and then enjoyed spending a little of it on gifts. Evilly, I think I spent more on myself! I bought wool fabric to make a skirt and possibly a vest, or add trim to the skirt.

Had a great time visiting with Funlayo and family on Thursday evening and, with just Funlayo on Friday morning. We managed a little shopping for Jory's new baby.

Back to work for me. All sorts of things to do, including that dissertation that needs checking.

Smiles,
Susanne

Thursday, December 17, 2009

update on cutwork lace, spinning

The cut work lace is proceeding. I won’t say it is fast. I won’t say it looks like the picture in the book. The design does not “open up” and show itself, which is most unfortunate. I need to go back to the one I started with and open up more of the threads that I’m removing, then complete a second “flower” or two so that both cuffs keep pace with each other. I do think I am gaining a feel for how the stitchery goes and may even finally grasp the pattern itself. The first half of each pattern has seemed easy. The second has been almost incomprehensible: how do I get to the end from the mid point?

Kanerva, my Ashford Traditional spinning wheel, got a present today: a distaff. I fetched the box from Customs this morning, the whole trip going like clockwork. Once I had a break in the day I sanded the distaff then oiled it and this evening I waxed it and then attached it to Kanerva. It is very elegant. I attached it so that I wouldn’t loose any parts though I don’t yet need its services. The time is coming when it will be needed.

The Inkle loom was also in the box from Customs. It also got a sanding, oiling and waxing before I put it together. I haven’t glued the pegs in. Most pegs seemed to fit quite snugly. The three pegs that weren’t snug, I “snugged” by adding a strip of yarn around them. I also made the leashes for weaving. So all is set. Now I must spin wool and wait for the lace flier to be back in stock, paid for, and arrive before I tackle spinning cotton. Only after the wool and cotton is spun will I settle down to weave the belt.

Sunday, December 13, 2009

snail's pace progress

It seems I cannot keep up, fortunately I have not set out to blog every day, nor have I promised to deliver “x” amount of handiwork per day, both of which is most fortunate, because life and unexpected meetings keep getting in the way of succeeding.

On Wednesday at Puikkoset, I managed to get 30 threads pulled from 2 inches of closely woven cotton. On Thursday at the Kansallispuku ompelu, I got a little of that lacework begun. It is on the sleeve cuff. Next I will need to take the other sleeve cuff and do the same. That way I will have two cuffs that both begin equally incompetently. Hopefully the rhythm and structure of the lace motif will settle in well before I am at the mid point of both cuffs. On Monday evening I will open an equal distance on the other sleeve cuff.

I am still spinning wool for a blanket, but since I will get a package from Customs on Wednesday, and it has the wool from Ashford... I need to finish this current spinning, which I can come back to. I will try spinning the wool for the belt over Christmas. I will put together the Inkle Loom that’s in that package at Customs too. Once I set up to spin that wool and get into the groove of it I suppose I ought to do the entire kilo at once – or to be fair: to do it without interrupting myself with other spinning. I need the same thickness of wool for the skirt so it would be best to lock into the groove of spinning just that. The yarn for the belt will be the “test run.” Currently the idea of spinning an entire kilo of wool seems an exceptionally tall order! Then I must dye it. I will dye the wool for the belt with indigo.

How much madder do I have?

Have I got enough indigo?

Now I must get back to work. I have texts that require the language be checked.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Another Progress report

I figure it has been some 5 days since I last posted. A lot has happened in that time. and much of it has kept me away from my computer. My apologies if this report is long, but I am compensating for three day’s absence.

On Wednesday afternoon I called Eija for a chat. We clarified all my questions. In the evening, at Puikkoset, Pirkko and Lea Kaarina poured over the cutwork photos with me. We all ogled the books. We counted what I had done, agreed it was definitely not the intended lace – and here I mean the most simplified lacework. They guessed that the “look” is different due to the photographed blouse having been washed and any shrinkage and movement that washing could create.

Else also took a picture of me spinning silk. One small length from a silk cap I had dyed with Ashford dyes. I used the Navajo plying technique to get a short three ply bit of silk yarn.

On Thursday I got to my sewing class and went over all the pictures and information again with Ritva. Unfortunately I had lost my needle somewhere between Puikkoset and class so I didn’t get any sewing done, but as I had to leave for another meeting it probably didn’t matter.

I am determined to spend the Christmas break practicing… now to find time to do so. I returned the library books to Ritva. Interestingly enough at the meeting I had to go to, Leila brought me a copy of Suomalinen Reikäompelu (Finnish Cutwork) which was printed in 1951 several years before I was born! It is one of the books Ritva had borrowed from the library, it is out of print, and this particular copy is now mine! How very fortunate to have such excellent friends! I was also able to discuss some patterns with granddaughter Lilja and hope to use her ideas.

On Friday I had a two hour break between classes and went into town. At Eurokangas, a large fabric store, I bought two meters of closely woven white cotton and intend it for my blouse. Then I went to käsityöneuvonta (handwork consulting) which deals with weaving and sewing issues. They were a tremendous help. They provided a short piece of cotton yarn that is a 28x2 tex. It is slightly thicker than button thread. That’s what I need for the skirt warp. It would be a 20x2 ne. I decided almost immediately that I do not feel like I wish to spin about 10 kilometers of cotton singles and then ply them to a five kilometer length, even if the total weight would be 500 grams (one pound). This particular project did not sound like “fun” – though I could be wrong! I don’t mind trying oh say 50 grams at that degree of thinness!

Besides it needs to be mercerized – and I don’t think I can do that at home.

On Friday afternoon, before my Tai Chi class I had found a source of appropriate cotton yarn –Ashford! I will look for others and go with the most reasonable. I also went to Poppeli to see if Pauliina had cotton yarn that would be appropriate for the belt. She does. However, I didn’t buy any because this is something I do want to spin myself and it is a four ply. If I do not succeed, then I can buy. Still, I face the problem of mercerization that I really don’t believe can, nor should, be done at home. My sources seem silent on the subject. Meanwhile I do have to ask Heather a few more spinning questions. I’ll be back!
Smiles,
Susanne

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Progress report 3

The phone company is going to begin to have hope for me and will actually have reason to send me a bill this month! There are months I use the phone so seldom, that I don't get a bill at all. I called to clarify most of my many questions about the Finnish National Dress that I will make. If you want to see the basic protype you can follow this link:
http://www.vastavalo.fi/kansallispuku-lapvaartti-kansallispuvun-osia-148283.html

If the book I mentioned yesterday didn't clue you in, and if you are still somewhat in the dark about the variety of Finnish National Dress then allow that this particular one is one from the Swedish speaking population of Finland. I first saw it in old, 1912, black and white photos in the book and wasn't sure of the colors but liked the look of the skirt. I admit I was a little disappointed to find it was red. But when I met Eija, she assured me that in fact the skirt can be red, or blue, or black, or green, or purple and all my disappointment vanished. I like the simplicity (!?) of it - it isn't all colors run amuck (and that from a person who wears such colors!). I am also learning that the simplicity is an illusion! Those interesting white flecks in the skirt , and the flecks of color in the apron, are in fact ikat. They are very carefully and finely dyed, then very precisely placed in the weave (weft). Theoretically I understand. I am eager to try it and in mortal terror that I won't be careful enough!

Meanwhile I do have answers to my questions. For the blouse I need a very closely woven cotton, or linen/cotton blend. This will improve the drape of the sleeves. I must use the cut work on pages 54-5 of Perinteistä ja uutta Suomalainen Revinnäiskirja but should not use the technique on page 63. Instead I can try the two styles on page 56. Currently, as beginner, the styles on page 56 look extremely difficult - beautiful to be sure - but difficult. In any event the style chosen must be close and dense, and other than that I may more or less freely choose.

Yes, the warp of the skirt needs to be cotton. Wool will not do. The warp will need to be "tex 28x2". I know this means a two ply, but I am not sure exactly how thin and fine this amounts to - and this in spite of having read about the tex system. When reading it, it sounds very clear and simple but it doesn't translate into something I visualize! I also don't know if the cotton is mercerized or not! Oh dear, looks like another phone call! Meanwhile the belt I can indeed pick and choose among the patterns sent. Originally the patterns on the belt were very locality specific, so for the general area the overall "look" was the same but by looking at the belt one knew where each person was from.

My Inkle Loom to weave the belt on is in the post. The wool to spin to weave the pattern of the belt is is the post. The high speed flier to spin the cotton to weave the belt is waiting until after Twelfth Night to be made, then sent, then I must learn to spin cotton before I can weave the belt!!! It looks like I am forced to concentrate on learning cut work embroidery skills while dreaming of ikat and belt weaving.

I have done my daily spinning. Now is time to walk the mutts and the enjoy the three books my sister sent: The Ocean of His Words, Prophet's Daughter, and Spiritual Intelligence. Reading the three introductions last night didn't exactly clarify which one I would prefer to read first, but each has a completely different appeal.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Progress Report 2

December 1 2009.
Yesterday was my first progress report on my Finnish National Dress project. I am not undertaking to make one of each Finnish National Dresses, but do just want to share with you a wee bit of the variety. Here is a link http://www.kansallispuvut.fi/puvut.htm to many of the Finnish National dresses available. When - if - you go there, you will see it is basically just a series of links. Most will bring up a picture of the particular National Dress from that location. Some will bring up a verbal description. What does not happen, yet, is you do not get to see that location light up on the map of Finland, so you must get a very good map or atlas out to find all these locations.
For each of these dresses the details must be exact. If the blouse is linen, do not think to try cotton or even a linen/cotton blend. If you do not like hats or head gear then do not think of selecting one that has something worn on the head! Jewelry, footwear, socks... even the number, color and arrangement of stripes: it is all in the details.
I hope you're beginning to develop a mild appreciation for the magnitude of undertaking the making of ONE Finnish National dress - and it is not on the link here, but please don't let that discourage you from having a good long look at the scope, color and variety that is shown here. Please ogle!
As promised this is a progress report. Today I learned that my wool has just left so it might not be here next week but the week after. That means I ought to return to that cutwork embroidery practice. I am a bit confused and will have to call Eija tomorrow. Eija is the person who knows all the details about the National Dress that I will make (patience, I will show it to you soon enough and well before mine is completed). I have a marvelous text Högsäng och Klädbod by Hjördis Dahl - in Swedish which I am totally unfamiliar with, but which helpful friends like Leila and my teacher Ritva translate interesting snippets of. Anyway it seems that originally - or at least as far back as records were kept - my blouse was made of cotton, yet I am supposed to be making mine of 50% Linen 50% Cotton, and I would prefer to make it of linen. But as I said: making a Finnish National Dress is a matter of fine details, so I cannot be swayed by personal whim. You see I LIKE doing the cutwork embroidery on Linen. I can see the warp and weft threads. It is almost impossible to see them with 100% cotton and I am finding it very difficult with the 50/50 blend. So I'll call Eija and ask.
The other "progress" aspect to report on is that the package from Eija arrived today - so now I have more instructions: instructions for the belt, instructions for the skirt and apron, and two samples, one of wool yarn - a dark blue, almost navy, 2 ply, about 17 wpi - and a four ply white cotton. And these lovely supplies bring a plethora of other questions: is this wool the same as is used in the skirt and apron, or thicker? Should I make all of the belt patterns, or just one, or some or is there an order to the patterns? The cutwork lace pattern is just part of the whole lace - does she have details for the rest? Can I use other patterns also?
Tomorrow is Puikkoset. We're meeting here. I'm supposed to share something about spinning and dying silk. I will try to let you know what Eija says and send you a link to the dress that I am endeavoring to undertake and make. Meanwhile back to spinning!
Smiles,
Susanne